Day Two

My jetlag still hasn’t subsided.  I fell asleep last night early, and yet woke at 1 a.m. wide awake.  I figured since it was still Thursday in the U.S. I could at least recap the events of yesterday, which was Day Two....

My friend Kathryn Nemirovsky arrived that morning at 4:00.  Walter and I took a cab to meet her at the airport and it took us only 15 minutes when normally it takes between 30 to an hour with traffic.  Apparently the city does sleep.  It was a bit surreal to see the streets empty with just the occasional wandering dog.  Somehow I was reminded of the various scenes in the Bollywood movies when the forlorn lover is wandering the streets at night crooning about his lost love, which is in just about every movie.... And before I forget, did I tell you that Mumbai is home to the Bollywood industry? 

Kathryn took this picture on our way home from the airport.

I was very excited to see Kathryn, a face from home in such a foreign place.  We proceeded back  to the apartment and were greeted with a torrent of rain.  I always wanted to see the monsoon season and this was certainly a clear glimpse!  The streets were flooded and there were times that I wasn’t sure that the little taxi was going to make it.  The gears kept grinding and we were at a crawl sloshing our way through the equivalent of a small creek.

After getting a few hours of sleep we started the day with the first day of clinic.  During the Ganpati festival many people head back to their villages where they came from before moving to Mumbai to be with their family.  Therefore, the clinic was quieter than usual.  It did work out well as I was able to observe and work with the staff at the morning East Bandra clinic.  While many things have remained the same since I was last here, such as the clinic itself, and some of the patients I had remembered from before, there have been changes that I should note. 

Pooja is no longer here with us and has been replaced with Sheilaja.  Even though I miss seeing Pooja, I am told that Sheilaja is a wonderful assistant and easily a part of the "Barefoot family".  There are now four acupuncturists, Meghna, Geeta, Vrushali and Satish. I had met Meghna and Geeta the last time I was here.  That morning however, Satish was the only one there.  I was quite happy to meet him and work with him.  He is quiet, a bit inquisitive and can tell that he is a valuable member of the team.

I look forward to seeing the rest today as we will all be gathering for an informal lecture on gynecological issues.  After greeting the rest of the team, I will put together a post introducing them.

I always look forward to seeing the patients here in the Mumbai slums.  The sense of community and cultural lifestyle is very fascinating and always brings me humility in the recognition that these people are just as real and human as we are.  We can bring depth to the level of understanding to the human condition and make genuine connections by taking the time to listen and engage.  I am forever grateful that I have something that I can give these people and am only severely hampered by the fact that my visit is so measurably short. Alas, I have people waiting for me at home.

After our clinic shift, we went to Ujwala's home as part of the Ganpati festivities.  I am constantly amazed at the feast that Ujwala prepares for us in this tiny kitchen.

Ujwala's mother is rolling out the dough for puris.  They are rolled, cut out with a round cutter and fried till they puff up like little pillows.

Valerie is trying her hand at making the little dumplings.  They look quite like the Tibetan momos I love.  These are different though stuffed with sweet coconut flakes and jaggery, a form of raw sugar that comes in large golden lumps. 

Voila!!  Finished dumpling!

It has been over a year since I was last here and as I am sure that some things have changed, many things have not.  I was elated to find that just around the corner from the apartment these street vendors selling fresh vegetables and fruit were still there.  One of my simple joys had been to pick up daily the few items I would need to prepare for the evening meal.  On our way home, just as if we had never left, we stopped to gather some crisp pomegranites, fragrant papayas, and yellow, little bananas for the late evening snack.  

I'm sure there is more to come, but for now, I am going to try to catch some sleep before the sun rises in just a few hours.  

Part Two; Day One

Ganpati / Ganesh Festival

Here are some photos that I promised.  I have to say that I was not in my top form today, mostly due to the jet lag.  Somehow I don't remember being tired during my last trip but perhaps, it is just the first day.  Statues of Ganesh like the one above are everywhere.  Today was the first day and the festival lasts till September 29th.  Unfortunately, I will be heading back on the 27th before the final day.  The opening ceremony was held at Ujwala's home.  We were joined by Walter (head of Barefoot Acupuncturists), Valerie (volunteer from Paris), Alice (volunteer from UK - her last day), Ujwala (Indian partner of Barefoot Acupuncturists), and Ujwala's mother.

We had a small procession with two men in the lead carrying the Ganesh statue.  Ujwala's home is in the slums and we had to walk a small ways through narrow alleys to reach it. I was struck by how much ceremony was placed on this event.  A priest came and went through the ritual of chanting and placing gifts around the statue, items of food, incense, and flowers, mainly marigolds.  Again, the senses were overwhelmed between the scents, visual bright colors, drumming in the background, and later a delicious meal that was prepared by Ujwala and her mother. 
  

There were a group of children that kept us company by the front steps.  They delighted in having their picture taken.

The girls wore pretty little frocks.   I was a bit enchanted with their open gazes and sweet smiles.  I was reminded of a childhood before television and video games.  Days spent outdoors and with all the neighborhood children gathered together and in and out of each other's homes. 

Ujwala's mother was preparing these herbs and flowers to be hung over the Ganesh.  She is an amazing woman and I am sure much like many Indian mothers.  The amount of work she did to prepare for the meals and the festivities was grueling.  Somehow, I cannot see my mother doing the work that she was doing, grinding the coconuts by hand, chapatis individually rolled out and cooked, constant cleaning, etc...  and all done sitting on a cold stone floor.

Ok. I am about to nod off...  Tomorrow is clinic....  See you all soon!

Day One! Sept. 2012

Today is my first day.  I arrived here last night at 11:15 and already the festivities for the Ganesh festival have begun.  I could hear the drumming, singing and saw lights like the ones you see at Christmas time strung across a line. 

Honestly, even though it has been over a year since I was last here, it feels like I never left.  Somehow, like time just stopped and perhaps that is a bit of an apt description of this country, even though I am sure that I am about to learn that things are changing. 

It is hot and humid here.  And again the smells, curry, incense, jasmin....  You can smell them immediately when getting off the plane.  Funny thing to be hit with something so familiar and yet you’ve forgotten unless you’re actually standing there.  I have to say though the smells have a new scent and this time it is a all the usual with a bit of muskiness mixed in perhaps from a scattering of rain that was absent in the middle of January. 

I awoke eager this morning.  The sun is bright and my eyes must have been tired because I kept thinking that someone must have turned on some sort of bright outdoor lights right outside my window.  But to discover that it was actually the start of day.  Back home, the morning sun especially as autumn is dawning, is much more reserved. 

Kathryn, is arriving early tomorrow morning at around 4 a.m.  I am excited to be seeing her and show her this country and the people.  I specifically chose this time with one of India’s largest holidays, the Ganesh festival.  I have no idea what is coming but am sure that it is a bit of nothing like I have experienced before and what better time to bring a cherished guest! 

Clinic is not open today as the festivities are beginning.  I am anxious to see everyone as it has been so long.  I’ll be sure to take many pictures and post soon. 

I am very happy to be back.  I was dreading the long plane rides but now that that is behind me I can finally just take that first deep breath and enjoy.