Home Again

I have been home for a few days now and yes, to answer everyone's question, jetlag kicked my butt.  My brain has felt a bit scrambled and all I can think is I'm getting old!

That didn't keep me from missing India though.  I left with the same feeling as my last trip, a bit of a tug at my heart longing for that same sense of warmth and closeness that comes so easily with the Indian people.  Again, asking the same questions to myself, who will know if something happened to me? Why do I work so hard and spend so little time cultivating relationships with those, friends and family that I love so dearly?  What has happened to us in this modern day where we pride ourselves in being technologically advanced?  Where our main means of connecting is social media and phone texting?  And what can I do to change this?

I don't have answers right now, perhaps because I am still trying to get my bearings.  One BIG memo to myself for my next trip back, stay longer in India at least long enough to get over the jetlag while I am there before getting hit with it so soon back home!

Aside from my personal bemoaning, I have had a lot of time to think about my trip.  Again, I had left with many intentions to blog daily but got swamped with teaching, training and treating mixed with Ujwala's almost daily meals celebrating Ganpati.  This trip was definitely different from my last trip in the main vein that I felt that I was coming back home.  I knew better what was expected of me and who I would be meeting.

My goals were different too.  In the last year I had been working hard to pull together the foundations for Humanitarian Acupuncture Project (HAP) as part of the U.S. branch of Barefoot Acupuncturists.  This trip served as the glue to finally complete the details to forge the bond between the organizations.

On my last trip I fell in love with the Indian organization and made up my mind that I would do what I could to help even though I couldn't physically be there as a volunteer on a daily basis.  People have asked me many times, why are you doing this and why this particular country/ organization?  It is too much of a cliche to say "I want world peace".  I will list below the strengths that I observed working with Barefoot Acupuncturists.

• Walter Fischer who is the founder and president is meticulous and passionate about the quality of the care that is given in the clinics.  I am certain that without his leadership the clinics would flounder.  I was again impressed with his unified vision for building a viable model for humanitarian work that is self sufficient and effective.  

• The team that has come together consisting of local people is remarkable in their desire and commitment to social work.  Not only do they want to help the people but their interest in furthering their skills by observing foreign seasoned acupuncturists and resuming studies is apparent in their work.  

• As depressed communities, the slums of India are unique.  I have never felt threatened once walking down the streets on my own.  The people here are gentle and of usual happy disposition. Such a remarkable difference from even the ghettos here in the US.  This is important for me to understand as part of HAP is to educate prospective volunteers from the States and know that they will be safe. 

• On a final note, I feel that it is our professional and personal responsibility, once we have reached a certain level of comfort to give back to the people who are not as fortunate.  This project is the best of both worlds in that I am able to utilize my skills in TCM and on a global scale.  The experience of helping people in such a unbiased way is bliss beyond verbal expression.  Also, I feel that what we can offer here is something truly lasting and beautiful in its solid growth and development.  And certainly a culmination of many years of hard work and struggle to understand a trade that is valuable in the daily lives we can touch. 

As the Indians say, Namaste....

Day Two

My jetlag still hasn’t subsided.  I fell asleep last night early, and yet woke at 1 a.m. wide awake.  I figured since it was still Thursday in the U.S. I could at least recap the events of yesterday, which was Day Two....

My friend Kathryn Nemirovsky arrived that morning at 4:00.  Walter and I took a cab to meet her at the airport and it took us only 15 minutes when normally it takes between 30 to an hour with traffic.  Apparently the city does sleep.  It was a bit surreal to see the streets empty with just the occasional wandering dog.  Somehow I was reminded of the various scenes in the Bollywood movies when the forlorn lover is wandering the streets at night crooning about his lost love, which is in just about every movie.... And before I forget, did I tell you that Mumbai is home to the Bollywood industry? 

Kathryn took this picture on our way home from the airport.

I was very excited to see Kathryn, a face from home in such a foreign place.  We proceeded back  to the apartment and were greeted with a torrent of rain.  I always wanted to see the monsoon season and this was certainly a clear glimpse!  The streets were flooded and there were times that I wasn’t sure that the little taxi was going to make it.  The gears kept grinding and we were at a crawl sloshing our way through the equivalent of a small creek.

After getting a few hours of sleep we started the day with the first day of clinic.  During the Ganpati festival many people head back to their villages where they came from before moving to Mumbai to be with their family.  Therefore, the clinic was quieter than usual.  It did work out well as I was able to observe and work with the staff at the morning East Bandra clinic.  While many things have remained the same since I was last here, such as the clinic itself, and some of the patients I had remembered from before, there have been changes that I should note. 

Pooja is no longer here with us and has been replaced with Sheilaja.  Even though I miss seeing Pooja, I am told that Sheilaja is a wonderful assistant and easily a part of the "Barefoot family".  There are now four acupuncturists, Meghna, Geeta, Vrushali and Satish. I had met Meghna and Geeta the last time I was here.  That morning however, Satish was the only one there.  I was quite happy to meet him and work with him.  He is quiet, a bit inquisitive and can tell that he is a valuable member of the team.

I look forward to seeing the rest today as we will all be gathering for an informal lecture on gynecological issues.  After greeting the rest of the team, I will put together a post introducing them.

I always look forward to seeing the patients here in the Mumbai slums.  The sense of community and cultural lifestyle is very fascinating and always brings me humility in the recognition that these people are just as real and human as we are.  We can bring depth to the level of understanding to the human condition and make genuine connections by taking the time to listen and engage.  I am forever grateful that I have something that I can give these people and am only severely hampered by the fact that my visit is so measurably short. Alas, I have people waiting for me at home.

After our clinic shift, we went to Ujwala's home as part of the Ganpati festivities.  I am constantly amazed at the feast that Ujwala prepares for us in this tiny kitchen.

Ujwala's mother is rolling out the dough for puris.  They are rolled, cut out with a round cutter and fried till they puff up like little pillows.

Valerie is trying her hand at making the little dumplings.  They look quite like the Tibetan momos I love.  These are different though stuffed with sweet coconut flakes and jaggery, a form of raw sugar that comes in large golden lumps. 

Voila!!  Finished dumpling!

It has been over a year since I was last here and as I am sure that some things have changed, many things have not.  I was elated to find that just around the corner from the apartment these street vendors selling fresh vegetables and fruit were still there.  One of my simple joys had been to pick up daily the few items I would need to prepare for the evening meal.  On our way home, just as if we had never left, we stopped to gather some crisp pomegranites, fragrant papayas, and yellow, little bananas for the late evening snack.  

I'm sure there is more to come, but for now, I am going to try to catch some sleep before the sun rises in just a few hours.  

Part Two; Day One

Ganpati / Ganesh Festival

Here are some photos that I promised.  I have to say that I was not in my top form today, mostly due to the jet lag.  Somehow I don't remember being tired during my last trip but perhaps, it is just the first day.  Statues of Ganesh like the one above are everywhere.  Today was the first day and the festival lasts till September 29th.  Unfortunately, I will be heading back on the 27th before the final day.  The opening ceremony was held at Ujwala's home.  We were joined by Walter (head of Barefoot Acupuncturists), Valerie (volunteer from Paris), Alice (volunteer from UK - her last day), Ujwala (Indian partner of Barefoot Acupuncturists), and Ujwala's mother.

We had a small procession with two men in the lead carrying the Ganesh statue.  Ujwala's home is in the slums and we had to walk a small ways through narrow alleys to reach it. I was struck by how much ceremony was placed on this event.  A priest came and went through the ritual of chanting and placing gifts around the statue, items of food, incense, and flowers, mainly marigolds.  Again, the senses were overwhelmed between the scents, visual bright colors, drumming in the background, and later a delicious meal that was prepared by Ujwala and her mother. 
  

There were a group of children that kept us company by the front steps.  They delighted in having their picture taken.

The girls wore pretty little frocks.   I was a bit enchanted with their open gazes and sweet smiles.  I was reminded of a childhood before television and video games.  Days spent outdoors and with all the neighborhood children gathered together and in and out of each other's homes. 

Ujwala's mother was preparing these herbs and flowers to be hung over the Ganesh.  She is an amazing woman and I am sure much like many Indian mothers.  The amount of work she did to prepare for the meals and the festivities was grueling.  Somehow, I cannot see my mother doing the work that she was doing, grinding the coconuts by hand, chapatis individually rolled out and cooked, constant cleaning, etc...  and all done sitting on a cold stone floor.

Ok. I am about to nod off...  Tomorrow is clinic....  See you all soon!

Day One! Sept. 2012

Today is my first day.  I arrived here last night at 11:15 and already the festivities for the Ganesh festival have begun.  I could hear the drumming, singing and saw lights like the ones you see at Christmas time strung across a line. 

Honestly, even though it has been over a year since I was last here, it feels like I never left.  Somehow, like time just stopped and perhaps that is a bit of an apt description of this country, even though I am sure that I am about to learn that things are changing. 

It is hot and humid here.  And again the smells, curry, incense, jasmin....  You can smell them immediately when getting off the plane.  Funny thing to be hit with something so familiar and yet you’ve forgotten unless you’re actually standing there.  I have to say though the smells have a new scent and this time it is a all the usual with a bit of muskiness mixed in perhaps from a scattering of rain that was absent in the middle of January. 

I awoke eager this morning.  The sun is bright and my eyes must have been tired because I kept thinking that someone must have turned on some sort of bright outdoor lights right outside my window.  But to discover that it was actually the start of day.  Back home, the morning sun especially as autumn is dawning, is much more reserved. 

Kathryn, is arriving early tomorrow morning at around 4 a.m.  I am excited to be seeing her and show her this country and the people.  I specifically chose this time with one of India’s largest holidays, the Ganesh festival.  I have no idea what is coming but am sure that it is a bit of nothing like I have experienced before and what better time to bring a cherished guest! 

Clinic is not open today as the festivities are beginning.  I am anxious to see everyone as it has been so long.  I’ll be sure to take many pictures and post soon. 

I am very happy to be back.  I was dreading the long plane rides but now that that is behind me I can finally just take that first deep breath and enjoy. 

Seaside clinic, Vaalinookum

August 29, 2012 

I regret that I never finished this post. I took a few moments to add some things and even then, it is woefully inadequate. Hopefully, on my next trip I can be much more on top of the news!

February 2011

We left Madurai at seven in the morning.  My guide had advised me that it was a two and a half hour trip.  After, riding three buses and a motorbike we arrived at the seaside village, five hours later.  I was exhausted, hot and dusty when I arrived but have to say that the journey was quite spectacular as far as scenery goes, especially the last hour on the motorbike.

We switched buses in Paramakudi, and it was there that I realized that there were no foreigners.  There were numerous curious glances at me but certainly nothing hostile.  Still I was very grateful for the presence of my guide.  It was that point on that it was clear that we would be going deeper into the remote regions of India's vast countryside.

There is something magical about this land.  It is like the country is oblivious to any other sense of time or existence but their own. Farmers harvest their crops in the middle of the roads, mainly rice and spices. It was explained to me that that is the only flat surface with which to sift the grain from the stems.  The aroma of coriander wafts in and out as we pass them.  Herds of goats amble along. And even the buses themselves travel at a pace that seems to say, "we will get there when get there". 

Of all the days that I have been in India, this day really struck a chord in me.  Although, I have been learning about the mission of Barefoot Acupuncturists for days now, it wasn't until this day that I truly, fully understood what Walter is hoping to accomplish.  The people of this village are so far removed from much of anything outside a 20 mile radius.  There are hospitals or medical centers that are provided in each area, but it is rare that a doctor comes to visit.  Sometimes nurses are sent, but even then they are scarce.  More often then not, an assistant of some sort arrives, and they are not properly trained. 

The village of Vaalinookum is beautiful and just a short walk from the seaside.  When I first laid eyes on it my heart did a little leap.  I fantasized about how simple life could be if daily it was shared with people I loved and my eyes could rest on such  surroundings.  However, I'm sure that the life here is far from idyllic. The people of Vaalinookum are very poor.  The main source of income is from fishing.  At one point, it did provide a fairly decent living,  However, much was destroyed in the early 1990's when a large tsunami hit the area.  Some work has been done to restore living conditions for the people, such as government built homes but recovery is painfully slow. They are not able to travel far as much is done on foot and many chores keep them home.

Every where I go, I have seen repeatedly how the effect of the two main religions of India (Hindus and Muslims and to some degree, Christians) impact the local people.  In this village, most of the people are Muslims.  While that may not say a lot for those us who live in fairly educated and tolerant countries, it says a lot for this village of less than 5,000 people.  The main area, where the clinic also is located, is resided by the Muslims.  Off to the side closer to the sea, is another smaller cluster of houses and those people are Hindus.  In Mumbai and in Madurai, most of the patients are Hindus, therefore it was interesting to observe the manners of the Muslims in this village.  The women are quite shy and reserved.  The traditional garb of burkas is worn and while the weather was clear in the high eighties, they were still covered from head to toe.

Ninety percent of the patients that we saw that day were women.  The men that did come were elderly.  There were a number of young women who were not much more than twenty that were brought by their mothers.  It was the mothers that were imploring us to help their daughters conceive.

I was immediately humbled and overjoyed by the reception that we received by the villagers.  Even though it was difficult to convey that one treatment was not going to create miracles, I could see how much people seemed to appreciate being heard and given some hope as to what the clinic could possibly offer.  As I mentioned earlier, these people's lives revolve around a radius that is limited by the ability to travel on foot or bicycle.  And what was available through the government was so ineffectual.   Seeing this village and the remoteness of it with my own eyes, made me come to fully understand the implications of what  this project really means. To be able to teach the local women to do acupuncture so that they could help their own people would vastly improve the quality of their lives. 

This clinic shared a courtyard with a children's school.  I fell in love with these children. They were quite curious as to what we were doing and came to stare at us.  I'll never forget seeing them with their clear open gaze and the smiles that came so easily.  I took time to take photos and a short a video in which I proceeded to show them to much giggling and fascination.  Again, I am reminded of the simplicity of their lives and how happy they appear even with such glaring lack of any sort of technology my children take much for granted.  They had simple books and the classroom lacked windows, doors and even some of the walls were open.  I was also struck with the difference in the appearance of these children compared to the ones in Mumbai.  Their white shirts and clothing were immaculate. Their facial features were symmetrical (eyes were even, teeth were white and full, skin was smooth, and cheeks were round, robust).  I could only attribute it to the diet that was mainly fish and local vegetables which was in stark contrast to the starchy processed foods that is readily available in the city.  Also, the living conditions in the village was much cleaner even though there was still the ubiquitous garbage that seems to plague the whole of India.  

I was thoroughly charmed by this woman who made lunch for the children every day. 

This woman was a patient.  I thought her sunglasses were odd here so far out in the middle of nowhere. 

Barefoot Acupuncturists clinic... Looking back as I was leaving. 

I added this photo of the water well.  Every day the women and children walked here to get their water in which they would use for everything from cooking to washing to cleaning. 

Again, I am amazed at how much I take for granted.  Something that is so abundant in the U.S. and that we waste with no regards to how precious this commodity is in much of the rest of the world. 

Looking at the beauty of these people and their surroundings, it would break my heart to see them end up in the slums of Mumbai.  And yet millions of people migrate there in hopes of a better life.

It was shortly after I came back that I was told that the clinic never made it.  It was with a heavy heart to learn of this news.  Opening clinics like these require more man power and funding that we just didn't have at that time. Still, I was very grateful to get a glimpse of the vision that we hope to have someday.  

Introduction to Barefoot Acupuncturists

My original plan had been to blog while I was there but that proved to be futile.  The days were so busy and by the time I got to sleep, it was easily one or two in the morning.  As it is though, I've had a lot of time to absorb my experiences and hopefully put together more thoughtful posts.

I want to introduce the main people who are a part of this organization and who I was fortunate to meet.  There are others such as David from Spain and Jaques from Switzerland who are part of the project but our paths did not cross on this trip. I look forward to meeting them sometime in the future!

Walter Fischer is an acupuncturist and whose vision is the foundation of this organization.  He is from Belgium and studied in Switzerland at the Swiss Institute of Chinese Medicine Guang Ming.  He also spent two years studying in China in both government hospitals and private clinics.

Prior to my visit we had spoken a number of times on skype and emailed each other frequently.  And every time I had a sense of Walter's integrity.  But it was after working with him that I got the full breadth of his personality.  I was more than pleasantly pleased to learn of his strong commitment to build clinics based on top quality care and high expectations of professionalism.  Furthermore, upon learning of the quality of hygiene and cultural lifestyles of the population coupled with a very basic education provided to Indian acupuncturists, I have greatly appreciated the challenges he has had to tackle in order to maintain his high standards.  Below is a video that was taken when he opened the first clinic in East Bandra slums. 

It is through the work and connections of Ujwala Patil that we were able to have the clinics in the slums.  She found all the people to work with us, the assistants, the acupuncturists, the clinic space and so forth.  Essentially, if it wasn't for her enthusiasm and commitment to the organization, we would have had a much more difficult time integrating into the community. 

Ujwala did much of the translation between the patients and I.  What made her so valuable was that not only did she do the literal translation but she took the time to explain to me the customs and cultural influences.  I came away with a deeper and richer understanding of these people and therefore allowing me to learn how to help more effectively.  She has an immensely strong presence.  Even though she is only in her 30’s I felt that the weight of responsibility, for her family and her work has given her wisdom much beyond her years.

Photo taken from the Barefoot Acupuncturists website

I miss this dear sweet girl Pooja.  When we walk into the clinic in the mornings she is already there with clean linens on the tables and needles in their proper places. 

She is our assistant and translator.  Nothing ever seems to upset her and if anything she'll give you this look that finds the situation humorous.  She makes sure that transitions between patients is smooth and often before we know it tasks are accomplished, such as mid-morning tea, ordered and arranged. 

I have very fond memories of going shopping with Pooja, Ujwala and Valerie.  Between train rides and motor ricksaws it took us two hours to get to the south of Mumbai where the famous Temple of Bombay looks out over the ocean.  At every moment either Pooja or Ujwala was holding my hand.  There were so many people, it would have been easy to be swallowed up in the second it takes to blink your eyes.  With these girls, I felt very safe.

In the picture below is Meghna.  She is an acupuncturist and had just joined the clinic when I had gotten there.  I have a lot admiration for Meghna.  I feel that she is the model of the modern day Indian woman.  She has two children and extended family to care for.  She has her own practice and yet still makes time for the Barefoot Clinic to volunteer.  It takes her an hour and a half each way to get to the clinic and every day she comes. 

I happened to cross paths with Valerie Boisson while I was there.  She is a photographer and shiatsu therapist from Paris.  This was her second trip to visit Barefoot Acupuncturists Clinic and she was busy volunteering her services to many patients.  She is also the one to be credited for two recent videos of the clinics, one of which is in my previous blog titled "Today".  It was wonderful getting to know her and furthermore, she is learning Chinese medicine.  We hope that she will come and join the clinics when she finishes.

The people that I introduced above, I met during the first part of my trip.  The second week I was in India, I flew to the state of Tamil Nadu and stayed in a city called Madurai.  From there I was fortunate to visit the two village clinics. Muhammed Rafee who is pictured below, is an acupuncturist and my tour guide.  I really was grateful to have him there as I learned a lot about the Indian people and their culture.  Muhammed is in charge of finding new villages and setting up the clinics.  He knows the countryside well and exudes this feeling that he is at home even in the remoteness of the regions.  His grandfather was one of the first acupuncturists in India and Muhammed is very serious about carrying on his legacy.  

The people in the picture below are part of the team in the Madurai clinic.  Ravathay and Priya are the two ladies on the right.  They are wonderful acupuncturists who are in charge of the village clinic.  I loved spending time with them and in fact we were all teary eyed as we parted on the last day.  They have such good hearts and their warmth is endearing.  Ravathay put henna on my hands and made them look so beautiful.  The other two men Ferose Khan and Yusuf Mulana are also acupuncturists who come to help out when they are able. 

That is just about everybody.  You will read more about them in the following posts about the individual clinics. 

Cheers!

Home and missing India

Me and Ujwala. Photo taken by Valerie Boisson,

It has been a week since I have been home and I am missing India; the people, the warmth, chai tea and even the nutty traffic.

It has taken all week to get over my jet lag and certainly have been feeling my age.  I think my son, Tenzin thinks that I am like an old woman, waking up at five in the morning and falling asleep at eight at night.  So different from my schedule before.  I was pondering why I didn't feel the jet lag there in India, but perhaps I was so busy I didn't have time to feel it.  Or the daily hot sun made it easier to reset my internal clock.

As it is though, I am feeling impatient to get the word out there about my trip.  Many of you have asked for updates and I apologize for having taken so long.  My brain was literally in a fog all week...  My father (a very seasoned traveler) warned me.

There is so much to share that it is really overwhelming. 

First I have to thank all the people who were part of my trip.  They were so kind and accommodating that my trip would not have been possible without them.  It did not take long for me to feel at home there in such a foreign country.  I will introduce the people properly in my next post which is already half put together...

It has been hard for me to think of much else but my trip for the past week.  Aside from the obvious things such as daily sunlight and 85 degree weather which we are sorely lacking here in Michigan, there are many little things when added up, make for something tremendous. 

My trip has changed me in many ways. It deepened my appreciation for people in general and all our struggles for meaning.  How much more we need each other to bring wholeness in our lives.  With the Barefoot Acupuncturists project I saw firsthand the enormousness of the impact of our actions, merely because we take the time to care, I was brought to tears with every moment that I was so fortunate to be a part of. 

Below is a clip of what I wrote on Nourishingdestiny.com. I reposted it here as it really summed up well much of what I observed and miss about India.

 

What I realized with the people that I met in India, in the clinic and outside was that there was very little prevalence of depression or anxiety.  I asked Walter who runs the organization and the head acupuncturist, if he sees many cases for stress and emotional issues, and he said “no”.  Even with all the cause for distress with the poverty and cultural limitations, these people are rooted in a deep abiding happiness. They take life as it comes and do what they need to do to survive. What I have noticed in our country, even with all the freedom and fortunate circumstance, that we have this deep dissatisfaction and depression with our lives.  It’s a stark contrast!!

I feel that the very basic value for human connection is lost here.  We get caught up in the minute details of what makes us better critical thinkers but lose heart in much of the basics.  How can we heal gender conditioning if we can’t even make the most basic connections with each other and emphasize maintaining it? 

India certainly is not a perfect place.  But they value community and relationships. 

I realized that if something were to happen to me, that it might be days before someone decides to do something about my absence.  Perhaps my boyfriend would call and make inquiries, or my children would wonder why I haven’t called them, or my patients would be upset that I am not there for their appointments.  But I know my neighbors wouldn’t come over to check on me or my friends would just think I am busy.  But in India, if something happens to anyone, everybody in the community knows and something is immediately done. We are lacking that here.  We don’t look out for each other and in fact with all the capabilities of connection with the internet and smart phones we are still an incredibly isolated culture.

 I walked away from my experience in India in awe of the power of Chinese medicine.  How we can use this as a vehicle for healing in ways that allows for seamlessly bridging culture and timeless values with actual results.  What a perfect medium to use in the remote villages as well as the bustle of city life.  And how as a vehicle we are able to make connections with the people in such a way that allows them to truly feel cared for, and respected amidst their customs.  I walked away with tremendously renewed faith in our abilities as Chinese medicine practitioners and what we are trained to do.  The versatility with which we are able to adapt the medicine to suit what is needed.  

And finally to get the whiff of something truly divine in the pure act of selfless work.  To know that we are a part of something that is way bigger than our individual selves is priceless.   

 

Please watch for the following blog posts.  My next post will introduce the people who are part of the organization.  After that I will be putting together posts about each of the four individual clinics.  It is only fair that they are done separately as each one is very different.  You'll see....  I am in love with this project and this country and after awhile I hope you will understand why.  

 

Walter, I know that our journey has just begun. You are a tremendous person with an incredible vision. I am honored to be welcomed into your life and to be asked to share this vision. I look forward to returning soon.