Day 2

I have arrived in Sikkim!  Greetings from the Himalayan mountains!

I found that the internet modem doesn't work on my laptop, perhaps because it is not configured for Apple products.  Therefore, I have been borrowing my host family's computer, which works just fine but I'm unable to figure out how to upload pictures from my camera.  I will have to post pictures once I get wireless access again.

It is four in the morning on Friday and I arrived here on Wednesday evening.  It was a short flight from New Delhi to Bagdogra airport on Wednesday afternoon. The airport is very small with one building. You depart and arrive in the one and only gate.  The town of Bagdogra is still part of mainland India.  The cows are wandering in the middle of bustling traffic. The beggars are walking from car to car and the smells are the same.  Still, I love it here and welcome all the imploding cultural infusions of the five senses.

Sanjeeb Garung is my guide. He and his family have become my family even in such a short period of time. Sanjeeb was waiting there at the airport for me.  I had been worried that I wouldn't know how to find him but I needn't worry as he knew how to find me.  Although he had driven four hours to come get me, he was just as happy to turn around and drive the five hours back.

The days are short here.  We had eaten a bit of food, curried lentils and paneer cheese with rotis, flatbreads.  Once we had finished it was 5pm and the sun was already starting to set. It took us all together five hours of driving to get to Sanjeeb's home which is in Gangtok, the capitol of Sikkim.

We drove through the darkness and it was like my son, Tenzin's video game of car racing.  Literally we were driving around sharp curves for over five hours. One side with mountain wall and the other side dropping down into what could not be seen except occasional glimpses of a river far below. On top of that Sanjeeb was weaving in and out of traffic. Very impressive I have to admit.

 Half way through we had left mainland India and entered Sikkim.  We had to stop at the border to get a permit to enter the state and get my passport stamped.

We arrived in the evening around 10 o'clock.  That night I had my first deep sleep and awoke only once for an hour.

It is so different here.  Even though the population of Gangtok is around 100,000 people and much like a little city, the nights are quiet.  The air is crisp and cool as the city itself is carved into the mountainside. The streets and walkways are very steep.  I feel a bit like a mountain goat or perhaps my own fantasized version of what a sherpa would be like, wandering the mountain tops.

I spent the day yesterday with Sanjeeb wandering through the city.  It is marvellous here.  There are little shops all along the streets and the walkways are well maintained. Immediately, I feel like a part of the culture. The people look a bit like me, perhaps because of my Mongolian ancestry through my Korean nationality.  It was amazing to me to look around and see people who look like me.  You can see the Tibetan, Nepalese, and Bhutanese melting pot here amidst the Sikkimese.  There are restaurants, touting such cuisines and shops selling wares from there as well as proudly displaying local artisans crafts.  It is the predominant feeling of Buddhism and Sikkim's national pride.  There are very few foreigners here. I think I only counted about three caucasions throughout my whole day.

There are number of things that I have learned in one day:

• Sikkim became a part of India in 1975.  Although there is evidence of Indian culture here it is clear that the people are very proud to be Sikkimese.  I have come to the conclusion that even though Sikkim is a state of India, it still a country in itself.  

• Sikkim is very similar if not the same as Bhutan and Nepal. The countryside is the same as they share the same mountain range.  The face of the people are the same across the board with the variety in the darkness in skin and the effect of Mongolian features.  I feel as though I have left India behind at the border. 

• There is a convergence of religions here, Buddhism, Hinduism, and Muslims. But the main one is clearly Buddhism. You can see it in the effusion of Buddhist relics that is sold and displayed.  
• Sikkim is the only organic state in India. And they are proud to keep it so.  They are adamant about raising animals without chemicals and antibiotics.  The produce is grown without chemical fertilizers or pesticides.  Almost all the food is obtained from local sources.  I ate an egg this morning that had an orange yolk!  And for dinner I had momos (dumplings) made with local chicken.  

• The former king of Sikkim, Chogyal Thondup Namgyal had a beloved American wife, Hope Cooke.  I bought a book that tells all about that era and I am looking forward to reading it.  I believe it is because of this relationship that the people of Sikkim are very fond of Americans.  

I think this is more than enough to blog about in one post.  I have a lot more to share and will write it later today after I have processed my thoughts a bit.  

I will end with a very touching note.  Last night, Sanjeeb showed me the messages that Ming Liu had sent him about my coming.  This happened right before he had passed in late April as he wrote saying that he did not have much time and wouldn't be coming.  He told Sanjeeb about me and told him to take good care of me when I came.  I almost cried because it was like Ming is still watching over us.  He had the foresight to look ahead and make connections when he could.  It is because of these messages that my path has been forged and set before me.  Thank you Ming. It is clear that you are not forgotten and still dearly loved.  

My heart has been made wider and my eyes are clearer.  Life is truly beautiful.  It cannot be measured by materials but by the love we share.

Day One 10/27/15

Food Market in New Delhi

Jet lag is a funny thing.  Your body thinks it wants to eat, sleep or walk or all three at once.  I tried to write on the flight coming out like I have done historically in the past  four years but I couldn’t string a single sentence together.  Now, it is 11:00 pm in New Delhi and after having slept for two hours I can’t resume my sleep.  The joys of traveling half way around the world.  So I dragged out my laptop and proceeded to pull together a much needed update on the blog.  

Every trip to India has been different and this one is certainly no exception.  Perhaps by far this is the most difficult and will be critical in setting the stage for the coming HAP projects.  There are so many unknown factors and in the months prior to this trip even though I had planned and written out in detail the beginnings of this HAP project, it became quite clear that we were running on presumptions.  We still didn’t know if the community at large would welcome an acupuncture clinic.  Where would we set up and who would be interested in taking on this large commitment to learn a whole new life skill and healing art?  All these things need to be explored and discussed with the locals before commencing with any solid base for development plans. 

Some of you have asked me how I came to decide on Sikkim, and I can simply say it was at the request of a HAP board member, Ming Liu.  Over a year ago, John Kokko, another HAP board member, introduced me to Ming via Facebook and suggested that we communicate since we seemed to have the same goals regarding enabling and training local people in destitute areas to do acupuncture.  While I was still very much involved with the Barefoot Acupuncturists in Mumbai, I was intrigued by Ming’s request to go to Bhutan.  I followed up with a visit to California and it was then that Ming and I solidified our decision to work together to produce Ming’s dream.  We labored for months and planned trips that kept getting pushed back.  Finally, we were realizing that Bhutan would be difficult to proceed without some solid connections with the Bhutanese government and their Ministry of Health.  So, Ming said to me one day, what would you think of going to Sikkim? And I said, yes. Hence my trip to Sikkim.  

It is with a heavy heart that Ming passed away last May.  We were supposed to do this trip together and I would like to think that he is with me in spirit.  It is certainly, in his honor and memory that we are proceeding with our plans as he wouldn’t want it any other way.  I am deeply grateful to Ming for having trusted me with his visions and for giving me the inspiration to take HAP in this new direction.  

For those of you who have been following my blog for the past years will remember that my previous trips have been with Barefoot Acupuncturists in Mumbai.  I am indebted to Walter Fischer and the Barefoot family for giving me the whole hearted conviction that this work can be done.  I have seen it in action with this team and their love and generosity towards me has given me the foundation that I will always carry with me with every step I take.  This new direction could not have been done without them.  My only sorrow is that I won’t see them as frequently as I have been. 

This trip was the first time that I flew straight from Chicago to New Delhi.  Fifteen hours.  I have two things to say about that, it’s a long damn flight and why the hell don’t they make the seats with low back support?  Other than that, I liked not having to go through customs twice in Amsterdam at what seems like the middle of the night.  

I ended up getting a hotel room in New Delhi since my last flight doesn’t leave until tomorrow.  A word of advice, if you are going to be needing a hotel for a layover, do your homework beforehand.  Know what hotel to ask for and what the going rate is.  I paid the equivalent of $65 for taxi to and from the hotel and one night. While at the time I thought that was reasonable, the hotel the driver took me to was posted online for $20 per night.  So, they obviously made $30 to $40 off of me as taxi fare is dirt cheap here.  In the end, it doesn’t matter, I have wasted that money on worse things.  In the future though, I’m going to stake out the hotels ahead of time.   

Now it’s midnight. I have a long day of traveling tomorrow. Another flight to Bagdogra and then four hours of driving to Gangtok.  I should’ve brought the melatonin.  More tomorrow.  Good night. Or good day. Sigh. 

Last Day

I have been unable to keep up with the blogging on this trip.  It is similar to the past trips in that I stopped after the third day. I did want to write one more at least to wrap up the trip and also to finally give some recognition to the team here.  Already, I am on the flight home and with only three hours left before landing.  

I've had a lot of time to reflect on this past trip and to give some sort of closure.  This trip was difficult in some ways and a much needed one in others.  I was sick and exhausted this time and when feeling like this it was difficult to be alone in a foreign country.  I was longing for the comforts of my own bed and my own kitchen to make my familiar foods.  I was very grateful for the company and love of Geeta and Ujwala.  They took care of me and kept me occupied.  

I had never gone to the seaside here before and I remember particularily, sitting on a warm bench with Geeta for hours and laughing about "gathering qi".  But really, we were gathering qi and it was not to be taken lightly.  Between those long moments of sitting, whether I was in Geeta's car watching the city go by or elsewhere in a tea shop, I did what I never do, which was just take in the moment in long silent stretches.  Even now, I have tears in my eyes just remembering, enduring the pain and yet allowing joy to come in spite of it.  

This city is hard on one's kidney qi and mine was seriously low in reserves prior to coming.  The hot sticky weather, the dusty and musty polution, and the constant bustle of the hoards of people wore on me more than usual.  I took many naps and found myself falling asleep in between.  The jet lag certainly didn't help either.  My last night there was my only night of full rest without waking.  

Regardless of the difficulties, my love for the country and the people were not hampered.  I still wished that I had more time there, that the ten days was far too inadequate for what I wanted to accomplish.  

I wish that I had had more time to work with the team to give them my support.  I hope that they will take the time to read this and know how proud I am of them.  They have become exceptional in their practice and as people.  I came to know them four years ago as their teacher and now can say that they are my colleagues.  They have taken the precept to heart that Chinese medicine is a spiritual practice and a life long study.  They have continued to hone their skills and their observations.  

The new additons of the administration team, Shashi, Rashi, Aparna, and ....  have brought the Barefoot organization to the next level.  I am realizing how far they have come from the initial days. 

This trip was much needed to connect with the people here after a long absence and to meet with Walter to firm plans between Barefoot and HAP (Humanitarian Acupuncture Project).  We have much work ahead of us and yet I am looking forward with anticipation and hope.  

On a personal note, this trip was much needed.  Over the years and especially this past one, I had become much disillusioned and tired with too much unnecesary details. How much of it really matters?  I am finding myself questioning everything in my life.  From the materialism of what I have aquired to the avoidance of a routine of a spiritual practice.  In the minutae of daily life, I have sorely lost sight of the bigger picture.  In a way, I am lost and I need to find my way back. Truly, we can't know that we are lost till we acknowledge it and that was what I did during this trip.  

There is a grander scheme to our lives and the sooner we align ourselves with it, the more we will become sustained.  Daily, I looked at the people of Mumbai and recognized that we are woven into the same fabric that connects us all.  And we must find a way to acknowledge and respect them.  To not do so, is to disregard not just basic humanity but the failings within ourselves. 

 

This post is dedicated to my Barefoot family.  I hope you know how much I have to come to love and cherish you.  

Acupuncturists: Meghna, Satish, Vrushali, Geeta, and Mitali

Clinic doctor: Shashi

Assistants: Suvarna, Nimala, Shabnam, and Anita

Administrators: Ujwala, Rashi, Pramila, and Aparna

And of course Walter

Day 3, October 10, 2014

Dharavi Clinic

Today I visited the Dharavi clinic.  This is the third clinic that Barefoot has produced and it is located in the slums of Dharavi.  To read more about this part of the city you can click on the Wikipedia link. This clinic is located in one of the most famous slums.  As a foreigner it is difficult to set up shop in this closely protected community.  Barefoot was invited and sponsored there by a few of the Jain merchants.  Without them, this project would not have been possible.  

There are some companies that give tours of the slums and indeed in one of my posts from my first visit to Mumbai, I took that tour.   It was well executed and informative.  However, there is nothing like knowing that you are a part of it somehow, now working with the people.  As a foreigner, it is not really accepted to walk around there unattended.  And even less so to take photos as it was not allowed in the tours.  However, I was very grateful for the personal guide who was one of the patients and permission to take photos.  

The energy here is really incredible.  It is alive and thriving and this is just a normal day for them.  Businesses are busy and people are visiting amongst themselves.  I've never seen this in the US, not of this magnitude.  And there is something wholesome about seeing the children mixed in with the elderly and merchants of every possible trade.  

Here, people are making shoes, selling saris and jewelry, weaving textiles, pottery, tanning hide, making soap, recycling plastic.  The enterprises here are tremendous, estimated to be worth at least 500 million dollars annually.  The next time I see an item labeled, "made in India" I will certainly be thinking of these people as it is likely that some aspect of the finished product passed through these people's hands.  I do wish that working conditions were safer and sanitation revamped.  And for all the money that is coming through, how much of it ends up with the workers?

The guy in the yellow shirt on the right side was my guide.      

Life here is extremely difficult and labor intensive.  I would never romanticize this lifestyle and yet I have tremendous respect for these people.  They have found a way to live together and a way to survive.  Also, I often think of the women who have to clean their homes daily, cook meals, wash clothes by hand, care for the children, and care for the parents.  

Children are safe here.  The community looks out for them.  It is common to see the children running about on their own or in groups.  This is the same for the elderly.  While it is a great responsibility for the adult children to care for their elderly parents, it doesn't seem to be questioned, but rather expected.

The clinic is a joy to work in.  The floors are covered in polished white marble.  The windows being on the second floor look out over the alleys.  The patients sit quietly in the waiting room and the atmosphere is cheerful and steady even with a stream of people coming in and out.  

Satish started the morning with a meditation that included the patients.  I have to start doing that in my own office.  It was a great way to set the mood for the morning.  Thank you, Satish!  

Tomorrow, I will cover Satish and Vrushali.  I interviewed them this morning and need to get my notes together before writing.  Stay tuned!  

Day 2, October 9, 2014

Today is day two and last night was the worst with jet lag.  I should've known I would be up half the night from past consistent experience.

There have been many changes since the last time I was here. I was pleased to see that the initial clinic staff were still there, but now with the addition of a full administrative personnel and a separate office to house them. There is actually something quite cheerful about the new office.  While it is a cozy space, it doesn't feel so entrapped with the glass wall facing the street.

Rashi and Ujwala

Today was gentlemen's day.  Upon arriving, there were already ten men waiting to be treated.  I was talking with Satish, one of our long time acupuncturists about the most common conditions that the clinic sees.  There are many people with strokes and arthritis.  I was reminded of a patient I had seen the last time I was here.  He had arthritis and had been on steroids for many years.  He didn't have any followup care and nobody was monitoring his medications.  Therefore, he continued to take the steroids resulting in edema in his legs, face, and arms.  I was alarmed at the duration and the toll it had taken on his body.  Steroids should never be taken long term and if they are deemed necessary they are usually closely monitored.  I found that this was a common occurrence.  The glaring lack of followup care and overuse of medications is incomprehensible.

Many of the medications here are termed old school.  There are much more sophisticated, modern medications out now.  My impression was that the older medicines are more easily accessible and cheaper.

View from inside the office. 

I was going over some numbers today.  I thought it would be good to give an outline of what the economic landscape is like for those who live in the slums.  For every  dollar there are sixty rupees.

It is common for a worker who lives in the slums to make between 200 to 300 rupees per day, multiplied by twenty-eight makes between 5,600 to 8,400 rupees.  Converted to dollars per month makes between $93.33 to $140.  Now in comparison, what they make in one month, I often make in a hour.  Furthermore, a meal on the street which may consist of rice, legumes, and a chapati can cost thirty rupees, which is fifty cents here in the US.  Where in the US can I get a full meal for fifty cents? It is because of the low cost of necessities that people in the slums are able to survive.  Should that skyrocket, then millions of people will become effected.

Now to paint another economic picture, it is common for many households in Mumbai to have a housekeeper who comes daily to clean.  The usual salary is between 1,500 to 2,000 rupees per month.    This converts to $25 to $33.33.  That is how it is affordable to have a housekeeper, driver, and perhaps a cook.  And yet somehow the housekeeper, driver and the cook can feed their family and keep a roof over their head.  Hard, hard work.

The cost of a treatment at the clinic is twenty rupees or thirty-three cents.  Of course, if they don't have the money to pay, they will still be accepted.  This amount is not much but helps offset the cost of needles and other supplies.

In the upcoming days, I'll be interviewing the staff and including them here.  Keep posted for more!

Day 1, October 8th, 2014

It is my first day back in Mumbai and it is like I never left.

Life here goes on.  The smells are the same.  The noise is the same.  The hot stifling humidity is the same.  And yet like returning home, I welcome it like I would a dear, dear friend.  I overlook the garbage and the molding walls and see instead, the beautiful saris, the innocent children and the flowering vegetation.  It has been raining here and the leaves are bright rather than dusty as I had remembered them to be.

I spent the morning at the clinic and was happy to meet the new additions to the Barefoot team.  I'll write more about them soon as I am still learning their names and their roles.

The morning clinic, as I call it, is located in the East Bandra slums.  It is a community style setting with up to six tables in two to three open rooms.  There is a large movement in the acupuncture field in the United States that calls the clinics, "community" style with multiple chairs or tables in a large room.  I like to think of this clinic here representative of how acupuncture is practiced in much of the rest of the world.  Most of the world does not have the luxury of single patients with the privacy of their own rooms.  This is what I feel is the true "community" style long before it became popular.

We were busy with patients and on Monday, Wednesday and Friday only women come to the clinic.  Tuesdays and Thursdays are for men. It is customary not to mix the genders in certain public offices especially in a clinic where the spaces are open and not as much privacy.


I was struck by this patient.  She had shoulder surgery one and a half years ago.  I found the scar to be quite extraordinary as shoulder surgery in the US is often marked with only one inch incisions.  Her story is quite unusual as well.  After the operation, as she was being wheeled out of the room, the door apparently had been slammed on her shoulder ripping apart the incision.  This required an emergency repair.  I can only imagine the damage that had occurred and wonder what might've been worse, the actual initial complaint or the massive amount of scar tissue.  We'll never know.

If this were to happen in the US.  There would have been multiple lawsuits against the hospital, the attending staff and the surgeon.

As it is, the care that can be provided through the team here is wonderful.  There are not many other options for followup care.  And truthfully, there couldn't be a better option.  How many other people are out there in the midst of the millions of slum dwellers who have stories like this?

According to this link, 54 percent of the population of Mumbai lives in the slums.  They are estimating that by the year 2025, there will be 22.5 million slum dwellers.  It is overwhelming to me the amount of work that needs to be done.

I'll be closing up now as it is getting late and I have yet to eat dinner.  I have more time during this trip for writing and there is lot to cover.

Heading for Mumbai - 10/6/2014

For the Gofundme campaign that this post is listed on, click on this link here. 

On October 6th, I'll be heading to Mumbai to volunteer for two weeks. People are always asking me why I do this and this is what I tell them: I’ll never forget the first time I came to India. A young man came to the clinic asking if Walter and I could come to his home to see his mother. We went that afternoon. This was the first time I had visited the inside of a home in the slums and I came to understand the living conditions that the people are faced with. One small room that served the purpose of a bedroom, dining room and living room for four or more people. The elderly mother was lying on the cement floor, and upon seeing her we knew immediately that she had had a stroke. She was resting on a blanket and nothing else. Upon further inquiry we understood that she had been like this for a couple of months and because it was not within thirty days of the onset, the doctor refused to treat her. We told the young man that his mother had a stroke, and suggested a thicker mattress to protect her from the cold floor. We encouraged him to include her in family activities to get her moving around as much as possible. And to bring her to the clinic when they could get her to walk. I’ll never forget this story. 



Photo by Lydie Nesvadba

A number of things struck me then, and have stayed with me to this day. The low level of care for the millions of people in Mumbai alone is overwhelming. The amount of education required to help people with basic self care is overwhelming. The daily survival mechanisms of these people, which go back multiple generations, is also overwhelming. I immediately understood the importance of what we offer. Where I come from in the United States, Chinese medicine is usually seen as secondary care or primary care in conjunction with allopathic medicine. However, here we can help people as primary care and, more importantly, community support. This is the difference between compassionate medical care and none at all.



Photo by Lydie Nesvadba

Since 2008, Barefoot Acupuncturists has treated 4,500 patients in four clinics that are set up in rural villages and urban slums. After chronic or acute pain, the range of treatment includes paralysis and stroke recovery, digestive disorders, gynecological issues, stress and anxiety, and hypertension.

If you believe health is a human right, DONATE to our cause: 
$ 30 will allow a grandmother to reach and use slum latrines on her own, giving back to her some independence and dignity. 
$ 50 will enable a family breadwinner to go back to work and to prevent the family from falling into poverty. 
$ 150 will help a paralysed stroke patient to walk and talk again. 

Even a small donation will make a world of difference. Please help us reach our goal.  All money collected will go directly to the clinics in Mumbai.  Anne is covering all of her own expenses related to airfare, travel, accommodations.  

Video produced by Kathryn Nemirovsky. 

Humanitarian Acupuncture Project is the USA branch/ partner with Barefoot Acupuncturists.  To learn more about either one of them go to:

http://humanitarianacupunctureproject.org/
http://onindiangrounds.blogspot.com/
http://www.barefootacupuncturists.com/

New Videos

It has been months since my last post and it is in dire need of updating.

Since I last wrote on here, there have been two videos that have been made of my last trip to Mumbai.  If you have a moment, take the time to view. 

The first video was made by my dear friend Kathryn Nemirovsky.  She joined me on my last trip and she did a beautiful job putting this together for Humanitarian Acupuncture Project.

The second video was made by Chetan Sharma who is the clinic manager of Barefoot Clinics in Mumbai.  We had a lot of fun with the interview, as you'll see.  Honestly, it took me awhile to get comfortable in front of a camera.   The message is immensely important though and we all hope that this will reach as many people as possible.  Please share if you find that there are others who would be interested.






Humanitarian work is tremendously important to the survival and well being of those who would not normally receive health care.  We believe that with the joining of minds and hearts that we can truly make a difference.  For more information about Humanitarian Acupuncture Project, click here, http://humanitarianacupunctureproject.org/donations/

Home Again

I have been home for a few days now and yes, to answer everyone's question, jetlag kicked my butt.  My brain has felt a bit scrambled and all I can think is I'm getting old!

That didn't keep me from missing India though.  I left with the same feeling as my last trip, a bit of a tug at my heart longing for that same sense of warmth and closeness that comes so easily with the Indian people.  Again, asking the same questions to myself, who will know if something happened to me? Why do I work so hard and spend so little time cultivating relationships with those, friends and family that I love so dearly?  What has happened to us in this modern day where we pride ourselves in being technologically advanced?  Where our main means of connecting is social media and phone texting?  And what can I do to change this?

I don't have answers right now, perhaps because I am still trying to get my bearings.  One BIG memo to myself for my next trip back, stay longer in India at least long enough to get over the jetlag while I am there before getting hit with it so soon back home!

Aside from my personal bemoaning, I have had a lot of time to think about my trip.  Again, I had left with many intentions to blog daily but got swamped with teaching, training and treating mixed with Ujwala's almost daily meals celebrating Ganpati.  This trip was definitely different from my last trip in the main vein that I felt that I was coming back home.  I knew better what was expected of me and who I would be meeting.

My goals were different too.  In the last year I had been working hard to pull together the foundations for Humanitarian Acupuncture Project (HAP) as part of the U.S. branch of Barefoot Acupuncturists.  This trip served as the glue to finally complete the details to forge the bond between the organizations.

On my last trip I fell in love with the Indian organization and made up my mind that I would do what I could to help even though I couldn't physically be there as a volunteer on a daily basis.  People have asked me many times, why are you doing this and why this particular country/ organization?  It is too much of a cliche to say "I want world peace".  I will list below the strengths that I observed working with Barefoot Acupuncturists.

• Walter Fischer who is the founder and president is meticulous and passionate about the quality of the care that is given in the clinics.  I am certain that without his leadership the clinics would flounder.  I was again impressed with his unified vision for building a viable model for humanitarian work that is self sufficient and effective.  

• The team that has come together consisting of local people is remarkable in their desire and commitment to social work.  Not only do they want to help the people but their interest in furthering their skills by observing foreign seasoned acupuncturists and resuming studies is apparent in their work.  

• As depressed communities, the slums of India are unique.  I have never felt threatened once walking down the streets on my own.  The people here are gentle and of usual happy disposition. Such a remarkable difference from even the ghettos here in the US.  This is important for me to understand as part of HAP is to educate prospective volunteers from the States and know that they will be safe. 

• On a final note, I feel that it is our professional and personal responsibility, once we have reached a certain level of comfort to give back to the people who are not as fortunate.  This project is the best of both worlds in that I am able to utilize my skills in TCM and on a global scale.  The experience of helping people in such a unbiased way is bliss beyond verbal expression.  Also, I feel that what we can offer here is something truly lasting and beautiful in its solid growth and development.  And certainly a culmination of many years of hard work and struggle to understand a trade that is valuable in the daily lives we can touch. 

As the Indians say, Namaste....

Day Two

My jetlag still hasn’t subsided.  I fell asleep last night early, and yet woke at 1 a.m. wide awake.  I figured since it was still Thursday in the U.S. I could at least recap the events of yesterday, which was Day Two....

My friend Kathryn Nemirovsky arrived that morning at 4:00.  Walter and I took a cab to meet her at the airport and it took us only 15 minutes when normally it takes between 30 to an hour with traffic.  Apparently the city does sleep.  It was a bit surreal to see the streets empty with just the occasional wandering dog.  Somehow I was reminded of the various scenes in the Bollywood movies when the forlorn lover is wandering the streets at night crooning about his lost love, which is in just about every movie.... And before I forget, did I tell you that Mumbai is home to the Bollywood industry? 

Kathryn took this picture on our way home from the airport.

I was very excited to see Kathryn, a face from home in such a foreign place.  We proceeded back  to the apartment and were greeted with a torrent of rain.  I always wanted to see the monsoon season and this was certainly a clear glimpse!  The streets were flooded and there were times that I wasn’t sure that the little taxi was going to make it.  The gears kept grinding and we were at a crawl sloshing our way through the equivalent of a small creek.

After getting a few hours of sleep we started the day with the first day of clinic.  During the Ganpati festival many people head back to their villages where they came from before moving to Mumbai to be with their family.  Therefore, the clinic was quieter than usual.  It did work out well as I was able to observe and work with the staff at the morning East Bandra clinic.  While many things have remained the same since I was last here, such as the clinic itself, and some of the patients I had remembered from before, there have been changes that I should note. 

Pooja is no longer here with us and has been replaced with Sheilaja.  Even though I miss seeing Pooja, I am told that Sheilaja is a wonderful assistant and easily a part of the "Barefoot family".  There are now four acupuncturists, Meghna, Geeta, Vrushali and Satish. I had met Meghna and Geeta the last time I was here.  That morning however, Satish was the only one there.  I was quite happy to meet him and work with him.  He is quiet, a bit inquisitive and can tell that he is a valuable member of the team.

I look forward to seeing the rest today as we will all be gathering for an informal lecture on gynecological issues.  After greeting the rest of the team, I will put together a post introducing them.

I always look forward to seeing the patients here in the Mumbai slums.  The sense of community and cultural lifestyle is very fascinating and always brings me humility in the recognition that these people are just as real and human as we are.  We can bring depth to the level of understanding to the human condition and make genuine connections by taking the time to listen and engage.  I am forever grateful that I have something that I can give these people and am only severely hampered by the fact that my visit is so measurably short. Alas, I have people waiting for me at home.

After our clinic shift, we went to Ujwala's home as part of the Ganpati festivities.  I am constantly amazed at the feast that Ujwala prepares for us in this tiny kitchen.

Ujwala's mother is rolling out the dough for puris.  They are rolled, cut out with a round cutter and fried till they puff up like little pillows.

Valerie is trying her hand at making the little dumplings.  They look quite like the Tibetan momos I love.  These are different though stuffed with sweet coconut flakes and jaggery, a form of raw sugar that comes in large golden lumps. 

Voila!!  Finished dumpling!

It has been over a year since I was last here and as I am sure that some things have changed, many things have not.  I was elated to find that just around the corner from the apartment these street vendors selling fresh vegetables and fruit were still there.  One of my simple joys had been to pick up daily the few items I would need to prepare for the evening meal.  On our way home, just as if we had never left, we stopped to gather some crisp pomegranites, fragrant papayas, and yellow, little bananas for the late evening snack.  

I'm sure there is more to come, but for now, I am going to try to catch some sleep before the sun rises in just a few hours.  

Part Two; Day One

Ganpati / Ganesh Festival

Here are some photos that I promised.  I have to say that I was not in my top form today, mostly due to the jet lag.  Somehow I don't remember being tired during my last trip but perhaps, it is just the first day.  Statues of Ganesh like the one above are everywhere.  Today was the first day and the festival lasts till September 29th.  Unfortunately, I will be heading back on the 27th before the final day.  The opening ceremony was held at Ujwala's home.  We were joined by Walter (head of Barefoot Acupuncturists), Valerie (volunteer from Paris), Alice (volunteer from UK - her last day), Ujwala (Indian partner of Barefoot Acupuncturists), and Ujwala's mother.

We had a small procession with two men in the lead carrying the Ganesh statue.  Ujwala's home is in the slums and we had to walk a small ways through narrow alleys to reach it. I was struck by how much ceremony was placed on this event.  A priest came and went through the ritual of chanting and placing gifts around the statue, items of food, incense, and flowers, mainly marigolds.  Again, the senses were overwhelmed between the scents, visual bright colors, drumming in the background, and later a delicious meal that was prepared by Ujwala and her mother. 
  

There were a group of children that kept us company by the front steps.  They delighted in having their picture taken.

The girls wore pretty little frocks.   I was a bit enchanted with their open gazes and sweet smiles.  I was reminded of a childhood before television and video games.  Days spent outdoors and with all the neighborhood children gathered together and in and out of each other's homes. 

Ujwala's mother was preparing these herbs and flowers to be hung over the Ganesh.  She is an amazing woman and I am sure much like many Indian mothers.  The amount of work she did to prepare for the meals and the festivities was grueling.  Somehow, I cannot see my mother doing the work that she was doing, grinding the coconuts by hand, chapatis individually rolled out and cooked, constant cleaning, etc...  and all done sitting on a cold stone floor.

Ok. I am about to nod off...  Tomorrow is clinic....  See you all soon!

Day One! Sept. 2012

Today is my first day.  I arrived here last night at 11:15 and already the festivities for the Ganesh festival have begun.  I could hear the drumming, singing and saw lights like the ones you see at Christmas time strung across a line. 

Honestly, even though it has been over a year since I was last here, it feels like I never left.  Somehow, like time just stopped and perhaps that is a bit of an apt description of this country, even though I am sure that I am about to learn that things are changing. 

It is hot and humid here.  And again the smells, curry, incense, jasmin....  You can smell them immediately when getting off the plane.  Funny thing to be hit with something so familiar and yet you’ve forgotten unless you’re actually standing there.  I have to say though the smells have a new scent and this time it is a all the usual with a bit of muskiness mixed in perhaps from a scattering of rain that was absent in the middle of January. 

I awoke eager this morning.  The sun is bright and my eyes must have been tired because I kept thinking that someone must have turned on some sort of bright outdoor lights right outside my window.  But to discover that it was actually the start of day.  Back home, the morning sun especially as autumn is dawning, is much more reserved. 

Kathryn, is arriving early tomorrow morning at around 4 a.m.  I am excited to be seeing her and show her this country and the people.  I specifically chose this time with one of India’s largest holidays, the Ganesh festival.  I have no idea what is coming but am sure that it is a bit of nothing like I have experienced before and what better time to bring a cherished guest! 

Clinic is not open today as the festivities are beginning.  I am anxious to see everyone as it has been so long.  I’ll be sure to take many pictures and post soon. 

I am very happy to be back.  I was dreading the long plane rides but now that that is behind me I can finally just take that first deep breath and enjoy. 

Seaside clinic, Vaalinookum

August 29, 2012 

I regret that I never finished this post. I took a few moments to add some things and even then, it is woefully inadequate. Hopefully, on my next trip I can be much more on top of the news!

February 2011

We left Madurai at seven in the morning.  My guide had advised me that it was a two and a half hour trip.  After, riding three buses and a motorbike we arrived at the seaside village, five hours later.  I was exhausted, hot and dusty when I arrived but have to say that the journey was quite spectacular as far as scenery goes, especially the last hour on the motorbike.

We switched buses in Paramakudi, and it was there that I realized that there were no foreigners.  There were numerous curious glances at me but certainly nothing hostile.  Still I was very grateful for the presence of my guide.  It was that point on that it was clear that we would be going deeper into the remote regions of India's vast countryside.

There is something magical about this land.  It is like the country is oblivious to any other sense of time or existence but their own. Farmers harvest their crops in the middle of the roads, mainly rice and spices. It was explained to me that that is the only flat surface with which to sift the grain from the stems.  The aroma of coriander wafts in and out as we pass them.  Herds of goats amble along. And even the buses themselves travel at a pace that seems to say, "we will get there when get there". 

Of all the days that I have been in India, this day really struck a chord in me.  Although, I have been learning about the mission of Barefoot Acupuncturists for days now, it wasn't until this day that I truly, fully understood what Walter is hoping to accomplish.  The people of this village are so far removed from much of anything outside a 20 mile radius.  There are hospitals or medical centers that are provided in each area, but it is rare that a doctor comes to visit.  Sometimes nurses are sent, but even then they are scarce.  More often then not, an assistant of some sort arrives, and they are not properly trained. 

The village of Vaalinookum is beautiful and just a short walk from the seaside.  When I first laid eyes on it my heart did a little leap.  I fantasized about how simple life could be if daily it was shared with people I loved and my eyes could rest on such  surroundings.  However, I'm sure that the life here is far from idyllic. The people of Vaalinookum are very poor.  The main source of income is from fishing.  At one point, it did provide a fairly decent living,  However, much was destroyed in the early 1990's when a large tsunami hit the area.  Some work has been done to restore living conditions for the people, such as government built homes but recovery is painfully slow. They are not able to travel far as much is done on foot and many chores keep them home.

Every where I go, I have seen repeatedly how the effect of the two main religions of India (Hindus and Muslims and to some degree, Christians) impact the local people.  In this village, most of the people are Muslims.  While that may not say a lot for those us who live in fairly educated and tolerant countries, it says a lot for this village of less than 5,000 people.  The main area, where the clinic also is located, is resided by the Muslims.  Off to the side closer to the sea, is another smaller cluster of houses and those people are Hindus.  In Mumbai and in Madurai, most of the patients are Hindus, therefore it was interesting to observe the manners of the Muslims in this village.  The women are quite shy and reserved.  The traditional garb of burkas is worn and while the weather was clear in the high eighties, they were still covered from head to toe.

Ninety percent of the patients that we saw that day were women.  The men that did come were elderly.  There were a number of young women who were not much more than twenty that were brought by their mothers.  It was the mothers that were imploring us to help their daughters conceive.

I was immediately humbled and overjoyed by the reception that we received by the villagers.  Even though it was difficult to convey that one treatment was not going to create miracles, I could see how much people seemed to appreciate being heard and given some hope as to what the clinic could possibly offer.  As I mentioned earlier, these people's lives revolve around a radius that is limited by the ability to travel on foot or bicycle.  And what was available through the government was so ineffectual.   Seeing this village and the remoteness of it with my own eyes, made me come to fully understand the implications of what  this project really means. To be able to teach the local women to do acupuncture so that they could help their own people would vastly improve the quality of their lives. 

This clinic shared a courtyard with a children's school.  I fell in love with these children. They were quite curious as to what we were doing and came to stare at us.  I'll never forget seeing them with their clear open gaze and the smiles that came so easily.  I took time to take photos and a short a video in which I proceeded to show them to much giggling and fascination.  Again, I am reminded of the simplicity of their lives and how happy they appear even with such glaring lack of any sort of technology my children take much for granted.  They had simple books and the classroom lacked windows, doors and even some of the walls were open.  I was also struck with the difference in the appearance of these children compared to the ones in Mumbai.  Their white shirts and clothing were immaculate. Their facial features were symmetrical (eyes were even, teeth were white and full, skin was smooth, and cheeks were round, robust).  I could only attribute it to the diet that was mainly fish and local vegetables which was in stark contrast to the starchy processed foods that is readily available in the city.  Also, the living conditions in the village was much cleaner even though there was still the ubiquitous garbage that seems to plague the whole of India.  

I was thoroughly charmed by this woman who made lunch for the children every day. 

This woman was a patient.  I thought her sunglasses were odd here so far out in the middle of nowhere. 

Barefoot Acupuncturists clinic... Looking back as I was leaving. 

I added this photo of the water well.  Every day the women and children walked here to get their water in which they would use for everything from cooking to washing to cleaning. 

Again, I am amazed at how much I take for granted.  Something that is so abundant in the U.S. and that we waste with no regards to how precious this commodity is in much of the rest of the world. 

Looking at the beauty of these people and their surroundings, it would break my heart to see them end up in the slums of Mumbai.  And yet millions of people migrate there in hopes of a better life.

It was shortly after I came back that I was told that the clinic never made it.  It was with a heavy heart to learn of this news.  Opening clinics like these require more man power and funding that we just didn't have at that time. Still, I was very grateful to get a glimpse of the vision that we hope to have someday.